Then it’s as simple as cleaning the frame, carefully applying the tape (with only the camera-facing wax paper removed), and getting it seated neatly. Then simply lift up the other half with your fingers, and it’s out. just pull it up, and if you go slowly, the tape will come with it in one piece. Once you’ve lifted a corner, you’re golden. End Alternative And Definitely Less Exciting Method It certainly won’t be nearly as fun, but to each his (or her) own. Anywhoo, though I have not had the opportunity to try it, it is highly likely that if you hit the rear window covering the LCD with your hairdryer on high for about 45 seconds, it may heat up the adhesive tape enough to allow you to simply lift off the window with a suction cup, skipping the whole stabby bit with the knife. No offense if you answered “yes” and you’re actually male, that just means you’re probably smarter and less prone to “Cheating Death” than me. Incidentally, If you answered “yes” to both of these questions, you’re probably female. Say you’re also the same sort of person who has a hairdryer handy.
#Lcd scrub windows crack#
Once the crack spans the width of the window, the suction cup can lift that half of the window away from the chassis, though it does take some effort.Īlternate Method – Say, for instance, you’re not the type who likes to live dangerously and play with knives, particularly around your precious and expensive DLSR. Now obviously, this step is risky, but the plastic of the window is quite prone to cracking and it doesn’t require much pressure at all, so if you’re careful you should be able to do this without the window, or obviously, the knife point, making contact with the LCD. Once you get a crack started, it’s easy to make the crack spread by moving the knife point, and requires far less pressure. If you don’t have a crack to start with, you’ll have to point the knife point on the window where it is supported by the chassis, NOT over any part the spans the LCD. In any case, the way to crack the window is to put the knife point on the window, in my case where the crack ended, and just apply a little pressure straight into it. And I know, other people have posted about older cams and being able to do this, but I noticed the adhesive used on the older cameras is different, and presumably weaker. If the window is one piece, you’re not going to get it off the cam. What you’ve got to do is crack the window all the way across the span, so you can leverage the window away from the chassis of the camera. I used a knife, a suction cup from a radar detector, and a pair of needle-nose pliers.Īs you can see, I also tried a gameworks card (basically a credit card) and gently prying with a small, flathead screwdriver.
You’ll need some tools to get the rear “window” as Canon calls it, off. Considering that the LCD (if I recall correctly) is over $250 to replace, I think I’ll stick with recommending the original, $25 Lexan window over the glass replacements.
#Lcd scrub windows windows#
You might note that some of these glass windows include film layers, which theoretically would keep the glass in place in the event it shatters, but I would suggest that your LCD still would be far more likely to take damage than it is with the Lexan in place. My thinking, purely off the top of my head, is that the lexan is probably a much better choice, as it flexes with impacts much more than glass, and probably therefore does a much better job of protecting the LCD from taking direct hits than glass would, which I would THINK would simply shatter with a decent impact and then deftly move out of the way, allowing whatever contacted the glass to then contact the LCD. Now I suspect Canon uses lexan for the same reason it’s used in race car windows it doesn’t shatter and it’s less prone to breakage than glass (being less brittle), though it is quite prone to cracking.
Something to consider about the third-party windows that I’ve seen is that they tend to be glass, whereas the original windows is lexan, which is a the type of polycarbonate used in race car windows.
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